How to Purchase a Kitten from a Quality Bengal Breeder

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  Here are a few warning signs that you may be dealing with a disreputable, unethical, or irresponsible breeder:

The "breeder" doesn't know or care about a quality pedigree.
The "breeder" will breed a cat until it can no longer turn a profit. Profit is the key word, not breed furtherance.
The "breeder" will put down retired breeders, or re-sell them as breeders, rather than take the time and effort to find them a loving forever home as a spayed/neutered pet.
The "breeder" doesn't interview prospective owners or ask any questions about what sort of homes the kittens are going to.
The "breeder" definitely doesn't take back a kitten or cat if things don't work out. This will be an included part of a contract with any reputable breeder.
The "breeder" doesn't work to further the breed, breed out genetic issues, work with temperament, structure or health.
The "breeder" does not answer follow up questions or concerns once a pet has been sold. A good tip here is how quickly they answer your phone calls, questions or emails when you contact them to inquire about their kittens.
The "breeder" will happily sell to a pet shop or broker - since the goal is profit, not the welfare or happiness of the animal or the pets owners. Actually, pet shops and brokers are ideal, as they may sell many kittens at one time, often in litter lots.
The "breeder" often sells over the Internet - and may have quite a flashy website with gorgeous photos. Flashy websites don't necessarily mean quality breeders.
The "breeder" frequently houses adults and kittens in very small cages, for smaller cages means less clean up, more space to house others. They might not let you see where the adults/breeding cats or kittens are actually housed, bringing cats for you to see to the office/display area.
The "breeder" spends very few funds on veterinary care and may vaccinate themselves or not provide an actual health certificate. Ask for a veterinary referral.
The "breeder" does not socialize its' animals with other cats or humans.
The "breeder" frequently breeds multiple breeds on a small or large scale - with no concern for breed development, and may not even be familiar with the breeds' standards.
The breeder has no knowledge of their breeds' Rescue Network, Contact person or Breed clubs.

How to Spot an Unethical Breeder

The "breeder" lacks in-depth knowledge about the breed. Even beginner breeders should have done their research and show enthusiasm and knowledge about their breed.
The "breeder" does NOT encourage visitors - if you are unsure always visit the facility.
The "breeder" does not register the kitten in a noted cat registration association, or sells them without papers perhaps for a "reduced" price. Registration is very inexpensive, so there is no excuse not to record and register each an every litter and to provide a pedigree or family tree for each kitten.
The "breeder" does NOT allow a visitor to see most of the cattery. Often, they do not want you to meet or see the adults - they only show the kittens available.
The "breeder" often prefers to ship, or to meet you somewhere, so that the cattery is never visited.
The "breeder" is rarely a member of a breed association such as The International Bengal Cat Society.
The "breeder" never shows. That's not to say those who don't show are mills, to the contrary, but see if any of their cats come from recent show lines, or if the breeders' goal is to further the breed and produce show quality kittens - meaning the goal is to produce kittens who meet the breed standard very closely. If you intend to show your cat, or wish to purchase a "show quality cat" purchase from someone who shows cats on a regular basis.
The "breeder" does not receive quality references from other reputable breeders - ask for references.
The "breeder" frequently shows ignorance or denial of genetic defects in the breed, and therefore does not test the animals for known health issues - so ask if they are doing any testing/screening.
The "breeder" is not concerned with genetic issues common to the various breeds - so ask about that - and do a little research yourself beforehand - compare notes.
The "breeder" rarely gives health guarantees past the first few weeks of a kittens purchase date.

Reprinted with Permission (with additions by Tracey McCready) from the Bengal Bulletin, Jennifer Miller, author.

What makes a "good" breeder?

The cat fancy is not made up of one kind of person. People who breed cats come from all walks of life, all financial situations, in all sizes, races and languages. Some are small breeders with just a few cats running around their home, while others are larger breeders with special facilities to house a number of breeding cats. The personalities vary just as much as the cat breeds so there is no "typical" type of person that breeds cats. They come into cat breeding from not only different backgrounds, but with different experiences, motivations and expectations. So what makes a "good" breeder.

If you show your cats, you might say that those who show their cats and strive to improve their respective breeds are the "good" breeders. Others might say that those who have genuine personal concern for their cats, regardless of cattery size are the "good" ones. Is it those with the best cats, and who decides *that* standard? Maybe it is the breeder who always has healthy friendly cats regardless of quality.

I would think there would be just as many different answers as there are breeders, so I'll give you my opinion. A "good" cat breeder is one that has genuine concern for the welfare of their cats and their breed(s) and does whatever they need to do to uphold the standards of both. Caring is not enough if you breed friendly cats, but the quality or health is not there. Health is not enough if your cats are not socialized well enough for their personality needs.

A "good" breeder is one who strives to improve and protect their breed(s) in all aspects. Whether they show or not, they keep up with what is happening with their breed in type (knowing their standard), health (what are the issues and does it involve culling cats from the breeding program regardless of how they meet the standard), temperament (both hereditary and socialization related) and general welfare (which involves customer care, helping cats in need, and mentoring other breeders).

All breeders will face health issues. What differentiates a "good" breeder from a poor one is how they handle the situation. A "good" breeder must have the time (and find the resources) to deal with overwhelming cattery related health issues. There is no way to avoid health issues, whether they be upper respiratory infections, parasites, fungas, FIP, as well as things like coccidia, giardia, and streptococcis. If you breed cats long enough you will eventually get everything, regardless of stringent care, cleaning and screening of new cats. You just can't test for everything so things will show up. Not all at one time, but you WILL get everything. What consistutes a "good" breeder is how you deal with the problem. A "good" breeder will not only tackle the problem, but will do so in a way that they clear the problem from their cattery. If it is an issue such as chlamydia, coccidia, giardia, etc., they will treat ALL cats at one time and treat the environment at the same time. They will admit the problem to those who have their kittens and assist in alleviating and being responsible for those problems. As soon as they are aware of the problem they will not allow kittens or cats to leave their premises until the problem is fully rectified. This can be an overwhelming chore if you have many cats and a full time job and a houseful of reserved kittens, which is why a "good" breeder does not have so many cats that they can't tackle (both in time and finances) a major catastrophic health issue in the cattery. If you have so many cats that should they all get sick (or have ringworm or whatever) at one time, you will be completely overwhelmed with stress and time constraints that you can not keep and treat them all, then you have TOO many cats.

Health issues also include trying to eliminate hereditary and congenital defects in your cats, whether it is something like patella luxation, HCM, PKD, etc. Truthfully facing these issues and culling those cats that express or produce those problems is being a "good" breeder. Blindly ignoring major health issues and remaining in a state of denial is not being a "good" breeder. The problems will come back to bite you later, so you might as well face them now. Honestly cull those cats from your program even if they are your best cats in the way of type, coat, etc. Depending on the problem, culling may take a generation, such as the HCM issue. When I used to breed dogs, a wise person once said to me that "you have to work with what you've got". What he meant was that it is better to breed your own known stock to purposely eliminate a problem, than to scrap what you have and start over because you will just be getting someone else's problem that they have not yet worked on or discovered.

Good breeders are responsible for the welfare of the cats they produce, for LIFE! This doesn't necessarily mean taking back every cat that someone can't keep, but it does mean taking the time to help those people either to correct the problem (meaning you have done/are willing to do the research into the behavioral or health issue) and you are willing to help in re-homing that cat (using your website or other advertising services or passing along potential kitten customers that may be better suited to an adult cat), or you are willing to take back a cat (and have the facilities to do so) in extreme situations, to either treat, put in the effort to correct the behavior, or euthanise. This includes cats sold as breeders who don't work out for some reason. Don't make your customers have to euthanise a cat unless it is a humane emergency health situation.

"Good" breeders are quite willing to say no to someone they know is not suited to their breed. I have heard of people who let a kitten go because, quite honestly, they needed the money, but they knew it was not the right environment for that kitten. These "hoping for the best" situations usually come back to bite you too, so it saves you money (mostly in time and aggravation), to say no. Spending a bit of time talking to prospective owners is the best way to feel out if the kitten and family are actually suited to each other. Asking questions such as (in my breed the Bengal), "is it going to bother you to have the cat on the kitchen counter?". You can keep them off when you are there, but that just makes it more fascinating when you are not. A fastidious homemaker with a house full of Royal Doultan may not be the best choice for a Bengal even if they can afford the best one. If you really listen, people will tell you the truth about themselves. You might have to read between the lines, but their expectations and tolerances will reveal themselves if you listen. What is their history with cats? What happened to their last cat? Do they really have the time (and/or the money) for proper grooming for your breed? A "good" breeder finds the resources to pay for the upkeep of their cats so they don't have to depend on the sale of the kittens to pay for the cats. We would *like* our cats to pay for themselves, but we shouldn't *need* them to, or we end up compromising our values.

This also includes selling cats as breeders. Unless you are willing to take the time and trouble to mentor a new breeder (and be prepared for them NOT to take your advice), don't sell breeding cats to those who are not already breeding cats. The chances of them wanting you to re-purchase the cats in a year or so (or they will just sell them to someone else to get their money back), is probably about 95%. If you are prepared to mentor, and prepared to buy back your cats, then go ahead, but don't try to mentor too many new breeders at one time.

Good breeders deal well with other breeders, and put in some time to educate and help (whether mentoring another breeder, helping a new exhibitor at a show, being involved in a Rescue Group, or in your breed or cat association). They also deal well with customers, whether at a show or in their home. You'd be surprised how a rude attitude from one person can slander a breed. Protecting the reputation of your breed includes making a good impression, not only on your own behalf, but also on the behalf of others. It is all making a contribution to your breed.

I'm sure there will be other opinions as to what constitutes a "good" breeder, and I welcome your comments.

Tracey

Professionals don't discount !

Doctors, lawyers, even the grocery stores, don't discount their products or services and as cat breeders we shouldn't be either. The best way to reduce the perceived *value* of your product (in this case kittens) is to reduce the price in order to make a sale. I know that as cat breeders, the idea of our precious kittens being a "product" is extremely undesirable, but to our customers, they are firstly making a purchase; the kitten becomes there *pet* and family member once they have it.

I suggest that all cat breeders take a marketing course, even if it is just a good book on the subject. Placing yourself in the market, perceived value, advertising and how and where to market your kittens is invaluable information. It can make the difference between having a waiting list for kittens or having a house full of kittens you are having difficulty finding homes for. Most cat breeders would laugh at the notion of *making* money selling cats, but it is nice if they at least pay for themselves rather than producing anxiety and stress. "Kennel Stress" is a very real phenomenon and there are books on the subject with some good ideas.

I breed cats for my own enjoyment, to show and improve my respective breeds. The offshoot of that is that I have excess kittens, those that don't meet the standards I want in my program, and these must be sold to good homes. Good homes to me are not only "nice" people with caring hearts who have some common sense when it comes to animals, they are also people who can afford to provide for them. Anyone who breeds cats knows what it costs to provide super premium food and litter and the vet bills are off the scale. A nice family, may want and provide attention to a kitten, but they must also be able to provide it with the expensive food and veterinary care. How do we find these people? We set our prices to appeal to *these* people. You don't find Mercedes dealerships offering sales and discounts, at least not publicly. Yet they still don't have a problem selling cars. Why would anyone pay that kind of money for a car when one a quarter of the cost will get you around? Status, quality, wanting to be unique perhaps. Why do we want to find these people? Because they don't have a problem providing the kitten with the expensive food, proper veterinary care, etc., which means less hassle for us in the long run. The people you feel sorry for who plead financial woes, are exactly the people who will haunt you when they have a problem. If they can't afford the super premium foods and veterinary care, they will be the ones who will have the problems. The discount will be forgotten when they call.

The best way to increase your calls and sales is to increase your prices! This may sound ludicrous, but it works. You place yourself in the market. That means you tell people the quality of your animals based on how you compare to others. There seems to be a unwritten rule among cat breeders that everyone within a breed should be selling their kittens for around the same price, and to do otherwise is somehow an insult to the other breeders. While the other breeders won't like you to under price them, it is not likely they will mind you having hirer prices and it may even provide incentive for them to also increase prices. This price increase is not based on greed. We just don't make money breeding cats, so any reduction in our overall loss would be nice or enable us to have available funds to attend cat shows, have better advertising, or even purchasing that new expensive bloodline.

If you feel guilty raising your prices, then consider value-added services or products that go with the kitten. Some people offer pet health insurance, books, food, toys, etc. Ad a year or two to your guarantee or consider early spay/neuter if available in your area. A friend of mine did an experiment with dogs. They were having a hard time selling puppies of this particular breed for $250. Raising the price to $450 created a greater demand for what was perceived as a better quality dog and the sales improved. This kind of money is still peanuts for either a purebred dog or cat. Think about it, people will pay $500 - $750 for a cockapoo in a pet store. The most sought after breeds are those with high price tags, not those that go for peanuts. The purchase price of your breeding stock will certainly affect the eventual price of your kittens, and some breeds cost a lot more than others to purchase top quality cats. While this will certainly affect the price, so too should the accomplishments of a cattery or the breeding cats. Are the parents Champions, Grand Champions, National or Regional Winners? Do you belong to breed clubs that help you to gain knowledge in your breed? Where do your cats rank in quality compared to those at the shows? If you are producing top quality cats and selling kittens as pets that would not be ashamed in a show ring? Then your prices should be higher than those that don't have the same quality of cats. While a Championship is pretty easy to achieve, it not only speaks of the looks of the cat, but also reflects the cats personality.

People shouldn't have to be rich to afford to purchase a purebred cat. Purchasing a purebred cat is a better bet for getting a cat with the coat, exercise requirements and personality we know will match our families needs. Offering a range of prices for kittens, based on how they meet the standard for the breed (how close they are to "show" quality), gives a range of prices with kittens that are truly pet quality being at the lower end, those that are breeder quality (a couple of small faults, but certainly one you would still include in a breeding program) in the middle range (being sold as a pet), and those that are show quality and top show quality (being sold as a pet). I differentiate because my price for a show quality kitten being sold as a pet would be a lot less than one that is going to be shown and used in a breeding program. This price difference reflects the different guarantee and my time investment into that kitten, but that is another topic. I also sell my retiring breeding cats for the price of their spay/neuter and vaccination updates, a price that anyone should be able to afford if they want a purebred cat.

So, my kittens range in price based on their quality as compared to the standard. Guess which ones always sell first? The highest priced ones. It is the lower priced kittens that are harder to sell. Always.

Even if you feel uncomfortable with it, try it as an experiment. If you usually sell kittens for one price, try setting different prices. When people ask why the difference, explain to them the special features of that kitten, or its' notable bloodlines, etc. Be ready with an answer, because the question will come. Or try it with one exceptional kitten, one you know will be of higher quality than its' siblings. Try to be confident as you talk to prospective customers and share the enthusiasm you feel for your breed. If someone asks you for a discount, just tell them, "No, I'm sorry, I don't discount kittens but if you'd like to wait for another litter (an adult retiree), I'm sure we can have something in your price range". You may want to have a set discount for the purchase of two kittens, but this is entirely different. Two kittens going to one home is less work for you in the long run. Less paperwork, less people to deal with later, etc. I give $100 discount on two kittens and even offer the discount to people on their second purchase if made at a later time. Some people just have to try to make a deal, but they don't walk away because you won't reduce your price. If they do, you do not want them as customers anyway because they are the ones who will cut costs elsewhere, such as food and veterinary care. So remember, professionals don't discount, and neither do we!

Tracey

How to talk to your customers

It doesn't matter how long you breed cats (or other animals), you will eventually get a complaint or have some kind of problem with a customer. The most common seems to be someone purchasing a kitten that subsequently becomes ill. The best way for us to prevent this is to keep kittens until at least 2 weeks after their vaccination (and I do say vaccination rather than vaccinationS for a reason) to make sure they are not going to have a reaction to their shots, or come down with something that is incubating in their system. Stress, particularly among purebred cats, can easily lead to illness. Young kittens, under 12 weeks of age, don't have enough body fat or a mature immune system. Enough of that subject for today though, as the topic today is how to talk to your customers when you get a complaint.

The first thing to do is get your ego out of the way. Producing a kitten that gets sick 3 or 4 days after going to its' new home, or even months later, is not a reflection of who you are as a person, or even how "good" of a breeder you are. No one, regardless of their tone, really blames you for a kitten getting ill after it leaves your care. So park the ego.

Probably the most common illness is a sneeze or runny eye. While quite scary to a new owner, we know that it is extremely common and with supportive therapy and possibly medication, it will go away and the kitten will be fine. Your customer is going to be in a panic, so we want to re-assure them. First, offer empathy for their concern. "Things were going really well, but today Fluffy is sneezing and won't eat". Me, "I'm so sorry to hear that. Tell me some more details and we'll see what we can do to get it cleared up". It is "our" problem, not just theirs, so your tone and attitude should reflect this. Another common complaint is a kitten with diarrhea, and it is usually due to the kitten eating something unusual, but *your* concern should be with the health of the kitten, not blaming the owner. Again, reflect your concern, "I'm so sorry to hear that. Is the kitten still eating and drinking well and playing?" They will answer, hopefully that it is just the diarrhea. "The most common cause of kitten diarrhea is eating something they are not used to, just like a baby having some new food for the first time. Has there been anything he may have gotten into, like the dogs' bowl, or new treats?" Handling the situation with a win/win attitude helps to alleviate the owners concern and helps them realize that *you* want what *they* want, for their pet to feel better.

If the customer is angry that they have already taken the kitten to the vets and were dispensed medication or given some terrible outcome (for some reason a runny eye is always herpes "that will never be gone" and diarrhea is always a sign of "FIP" or worms), try to calm them, not returning their attitude in kind. "I can understand you are upset and I'm sorry for the scare and the inconvenience, but you are welcome to call me first with any concerns. As a breeder for over 15 years, I can likely help you to treat the problem as I've likely heard of it before, without the expense of a vet visit." If the owner has taken the kitten to the vets and the problem resulted in a vet bill, then the best thing to do is offer to pay for the medication. If the kitten was not taken to the vets for a well kitten check within 72 hours after going home, the examination should be at the owners expense and a well kitten check within 72 hours should be suggested, if not mandatory, in your contract. If the kitten was not taken in within the 72 hours, or if the problem is weeks or months down the line, then you don't need to offer to pay for the medication. I offer 6 weeks of Pet Health Insurance with kittens and encourage owners to continue this coverage after the initial trail period. Remind the customer the kitten was cared for by a reputable veterinary clinic which would have done vaccinations, overseen your deworming schedule, and provided a health certificate. Offer to provide your vets' phone number for their vet, so he can call and speak to your vet to rule out the incidence of things like FIP or herpes in the cattery. Even in cases where you have missed something and unknowingly sent out a kitten with a problem such as fleas, ear mites, worms, fungas infections, etc. just stating you are sorry for the inconvenience rather than being defensive, works wonders. In these cases, an immediate offer to pay for the treatment will usually alleviate the stress of the situation and very rarely will you ever actually get the bill. "I'm so sorry! I had no idea. I will speak to my vet about it immediately. Please send me the bill." Even if it is something you feel is impossible, never say *never* is a lesson you learn if you breed for long enough. You will get *everything* at one point or another, regardless of your sanitary conditions and stringent care, and chances are someone is going to get a kitten that has whatever it is, before you realize it is a problem. I have had many repeat customers that had a problem with their kitten for one reason or another. They came back because they knew they could count on me as a resource, as someone who knew their feelings and fears for their pet.

It is not providing a "perfect" kitten that will bring a customer back, it is how you handle the problems that makes you a "good" breeder in your customers eyes.

There are, of course, cases where the owner is messing with different foods, allowing the kitten access to a room full of plants, or didn't isolate the kitten for the first few days away from other cats in the household. There are cases where you *know* they have messed up just from what they are telling you. It still does you NO good to blame them, or to state "what did you expect" or the like. Regardless of the circumstances, you want to express that the priority is on how to cure the kitten, not on who pays for what or whose fault it is. Try practicing different scenarios so you can get used to this attitude regardless of the news you hear. If you are a new breeder, or haven't yet experienced the "call", use situations you have heard from other breeders, or perhaps something you went through with a kitten purchase yourself and how it may have been handled in a more professional manner.

Another post I'll go into what you should be doing to prepare both the kitten and the new owner for the new arrival to avoid such problems. An instruction sheet stating not to give the kitten any unusual food for a few weeks, or not to give tap water the owner wouldn't drink, can avoid an unpleasant situation.

Tracey

Dealing with ethics complaints, my view

How should ethics complaints against a cat breeder be handled? Whoever originally receives the complaint, whether the cat association office, a director, or a fellow breeder, should direct the complainant to file an official complaint. A form, listing the parties involved and any substantiating documentation such as contracts, health records, witnesses, etc., should be filed, preferably free of charge, to the cat association office. This information should initially be relayed to the accused party, so they have a chance to deal with it personally and have the complaint withdrawn, perhaps giving 30 days or some other specified period of time. During that time, the information should be forwarded to a panel of a disciplinary committee, one of which would be responsible to contact the accused breeder to see if any help can be found to resolve the issue, such as providing health information, providing help and information on *how* to deal with their customers in a concerned tone, rather than being defensive, time management skills (which can help with both paperwork and housing conditions), and general help with mediation to avoid further action.

As cat breeders we should be a resource for other breeders, offering help and advice when we can. While help is not always welcome, I think it takes a few years for people to work through a few problems to realize that if they only had immediate information, whatever problem they dealt with could have been short-lived, rather than a continuing issue.

Ethics & Cat Breeding

As a current member of the Board of Directors for the Canadian Cat Association, I have been involved in Board discussions relating to complaints against cat breeders either because of the health of kittens, contract disputes, or the conditions in catteries. At the moment, the CCA office refers these complaints either to the Humane Society, if they involve health or cattery conditions, or to small claims courts if they involve contracts or financial disputes. The current Board of Directors does not have the time or resources to become involved in disputes between breeders, seeing many of them as frivolous and unnecessary "cat fights" between members, or between breeders and their customers.

While this may seem an easy way to handle these complaints, the spin-off is a very bad rap for cat breeders. Many cat associations have a complaint process whereby complainants can write a formal complaint which is then discussed by a disciplinary committee, receiving comments from both sides, and then a decision is reached to issue some form of disciplinary action, such as revoking membership, or forcing the issuance of registration paperwork, money owed, etc. to avoid such discipline. This negates the need for either the courts or humane societies to become involved.

In this day and age of puppy and kitten mills, back yard breeders and increased legislation restricting the ownership of pets, any avoidance of lumping ourselves in with undesirable suppliers of pets should be embraced rather than dismissed as beyond our control. If other associations do it, we can certainly do it. As a *private* association, we are in complete control of who we allow as members and therefore, who gets to advertise on our website.

I am not sure if it is still done as routine, but it used to be when you joined the CCA, you had to agree and sign a Code of Ethics as a requirement for your membership. I know I have signed one, yet what does it mean? At the moment, nothing.

I will continue this discussion on future posts as time and thoughts permit. I hope you will also comment.

Tracey

Why a Blog?

I keep hearing about Blogs and their popularity, so I thought I would use this resource as a way to get out information and opinions that may be of interest to others. Information and opinions on what you may ask? The title pretty much says it, "This & That"; although my initial focus will be on Cattery Management and Mentoring. I will also publish thoughts and information on my life, news and other happenings. I had always wanted to write a book, but time and a lack of focus on one subject seems to hinder that goal.

I hope you find it interesting and informative.

Tracey